Day 22 – Tuesday, February 17, 2026

The night at the petrol station was quite relaxing, for €2, I was able to use the washing machine and had a shower both in the evening and the morning. I had a good omelette sandwich for breakfast.

At first, I was not a happy fellow. It was cool, overcast, grey and the scenery was rather dull. The road kept creeping uphill and the progress was rather slow.

Not too exciting here

A pickup truck slowed and stopped next to me. The driver offered to drive me to the next large town, Calama, some 2 hours away by car. I was tempted, but declined respectfully. Granted, it was not a nice area, I had head wind, but then I am also a bit crazy. He then gave me a bottle of Pepsi. I feel a bit emotional seeing some much kindness around me .

Luckily, the situation improved - it was time to get rid of my sweater and the scenery became more appealing. I was actually quite glad I chose the biking option. I crossed the Tropic of Capricorn, rode along huge copper mines, blossoming cactii and even had some tail wind - my mood improved a lot. I would say this ride would not make it to the favorite of most folks - but I had a good day.

Crossing the Tropic of Capricorn

Mining copper

Such huge trucks work in the mines

Interesting hills

I made a small rest in a small desert town called Baquedano, from there onward it got really hot, the sun was burning - and there was no shade whatsoever. Next to the road were remains of 19th century settlements.

Baquedano

There was a ghost town I rode by, called Pampa Union, the town "lived" from 1911 to 1954. Nitrate was mined there and the settlement included a sanatorium.

Pampa Union, a town now in ruins

Should you speak Spanish, you can read its history

After 122 km and 1,100m of elevation, I finished the ride in a mining town called Sierra Gorda. It had been an incline pretty much the entire day. There are a number of accommodations in town, but they are either closed or are occupied by the mine workers.

At first, I thought it will have to be a playground (yet again) where I would retire in my tent, but then there were energetic kids playing even at 9 pm. Being reallty tired, I made one last effort to find an accommodation. A young couple was washing their car on the street (yes, in the middle of the Atacama Desert),t hey made a few calls and I was sent to a private house. They had a room, which was nothing but a hole. The bed and my luggages filled the space completely- the only window was to the corridor. Granted, it was not expensive, for Chile, I'd say it was a steal, having paid €20.